(This post is dedicated to the memory of Val Monroe Berry, who in February of this year, made transition, but expressed his most intense desire to have had Carnival in Trinidad be one of his Life’s experiences.)
In September (2001), I made my first excursion to the islands of Trinidad and Tobago to witness the marriage of my first cousin to his bride, and descendant of Trinidad. The afternoon marriage was performed on the beach of Grande Riviere Trinidad, a literal stone’s throw from the Caribbean Sea. We were sustained by the Indo-Caribbean cuisine that has evolved over the centuries that incorporate elements of the Caribbean and Indian, with Hindu and Asian dishes to make full use of the indigenous agriculture and livestock of the region. Fresh fruit punch for breakfast, or any time of the day, coconuts, Amaranth, (taro/dasheen bush), spinach, shark, and Scotch Bonnet peppers all combine in this cuisine to create ‘coconut’ bake, roti (bread wraps) of all sorts, callaloo soup, or pepper sauce: the items that define this vibrant cuisine. All in the crucible of the near-equatorial heat, surrounded by the music of Calypso and Soca that is the backdrop for “limin’ and winin’” – relaxing and dancing (winding). This first experience stimulated several returns, but this year I returned for the annual celebration that precedes the religious observance of Lent – “Carnival”.
The theme for Carnival this year was “Back to D’ Savannah”, which spoke to a return to the large park area known as the ‘Queen’s Park Savannah’ on the edge of the capital of Trinidad, Port of Spain. There is a major staging area there, and for Carnival there are parades, bands, costumes, music, and feting (fete – partying) that eventually finds large groups of people in the Savannah throughout the celebration. Carnival proper, is the Monday and Tuesday before Ash Wednesday, and officially starts on Monday morning at around 4:00 A.M. with an event known as “J’Ouvert” (which means daybreak), which lasts until about 7:00 A.M.. (According to historical accounts, this particular portion of Carnival is rooted in the slavery period of French Carnival where the slaves tried to disguise themselves with mud and paint to be allowed into the costumed balls.) Monday is a kind of informal presentation of costumes and bands, with Tuesday being the day for full regalia in the streets until the last bands cross the stage of the Queen’s Park Savannah. And then there is a mad dash to Tobago to “lime” on the beaches of that island, and I guess to detoxify before fully returning to work the following Monday.
A very enjoyable time overall, but from a Health and Wellness perspective, I noticed that there is a ton bread-type items served at all the meals, and like the United States, you really need to search out a restaurant to get served quality greens. Yes, there was the obligatory salad, and though I was in ‘Callaloo-Land’ for nine days, I had not one bowl during the time due to pre-fixe menus at many of the establishments at which I found mySelf dining. Saved by the supplements of Aphanizomenon Flos-Aquae (Blue-Green Algae), Chlorella, Spirulina, and digestive enzymes, I was able to combat the limitations of such a daily consumption to ensure the intense greens required by the human body. So, Carnival was a success, and I have already been asked to set up next year’s excursion (from 16-25 February (2012)). Find below images from this year’s event to provide a sense of the experience in both Trinidad and Tobago.
Arrival – Ready, Set, Win’!!!
Upon leaving customs in the Piarco Airport in Trinidad during Carnival, these are some of the first images One encounters. Make it your business to check out the standardized Taxi Rate Placard” giving you a sense of what it will cost to get from the airport to your destination. Prices are in both local currency (“TT Dollars”) and U.S. currency.
One’s first images are warm and welcoming.
Coblentz Inn and Battimamzelle Restaurant
We stayed in an area just outside of the capital, Port of Spain, known as Saint Ann’s. Saint Ann’s is right next door to the Carnival main events on the Queen’s Park Savannah, and our resort, Coblentz Inn, was an approximate fifteen minute walk down the hill to the happenings. To boot, it was a very nice boutique hotel, with a phenomenal resort and restaurant staff. I am definitely looking forward to another stay at the Coblentz Inn…
Coblentz offers a wonderful combination of Comfort and Relaxation; RnR.
…and Battimamzelle Restaurant
Island-elegant dining is readily available at Battimamzelle!!
The Saint Ann’s Neighborhood
As you walk down the street toward the Queen’s Park Savannah, these are some of the sights along the way. So if you want to shop or get your forgotten medication, or secure some Spiritual comfort, these are available to you in this neighborhood. Additionally, there are other hotels with restaurants and other activities to visitors – cultural events at the Queen’s Hall.
These images approximate our daily walk out.
Friday’s Frederick Street Walk through Port of Spain
On Friday, we had to go to Port of Spain to collect our tickets for the ferry ride from Trinidad to Tobago the following week. It turns out that Frederick Street is the main street for the bands to travel on the day of Carnival. The other main street is Charlotte Street, next to, and parallel to Frederick Street; there are many historic sites on Frederick as well. These are some of those sites.
National treasure images.
San Fernando Day Excursion
After walking to, and through Port of Spain, we took a water taxi to San Fernando which is south of the capital. It was toward the end of the day, so we did stay very long, but it was an opportunity to check out another part of the country, through a new type of experience. San Fernando is built around a mountain, very similar to Montreal (or for the natives, Mont Royal, or ‘the royal mountain’). These were some of the sites we consumed for that portion of our day, at the end of which was a dusk image of the statue in the center of ‘Memorial Park’, where we enjoyed Carnival revelry on Carnival Monday and Tuesday.
A full day’s activities and sites in another part of Trinidad.
Children’s Day on the Savannah
On the Saturday before Carnival, the children have the opportunity to participate in Carnival Mas. We did not spend the day on the Savannah this day, because we were trying to get to one of the mall’s to purchase some literature, and we were already warned that Sunday was ‘iffy’ and that Monday and Tuesday, the only game in town was Carnival, so you had better make it count. However, toward the mall, we were able to capture a few children’s/family images along the Savannah that Saturday. We even experienced Dr. Slinger Francisco, known to the world as “The Mighty Sparrow” at the foot of Saint Ann’s.
Sunday Evening – The Quiet Before the Storm
On Sunday we went to the Savannah because the bands are working on some of the final touches to the costumes/floats that will be displayed during the parade. Again, Monday is somewhat unofficial before the big day on Tuesday. Behold: Carnival costumes in waiting.
And So It Begins…
We did not take part in J’Ouvert. It was our understanding that you know the people with whom you participate. Remember, J’Ouvert is a celebration that often manifests concealment, via masks and painting. And though it should be a ‘celebration’, for some it becomes an opportunity for taking advantage, and criminal activities creep into an otherwise harmless event. Per those warning by those with whom we came in contact, we by-passed the early morning event and came out to the ‘unofficial’ day of Carnival Monday activities, with the bands, the music, partial mas, and sunshine!! (Well, it was actually overcast on Monday.)
Winin’ – For Real
Limin’ and Winin’ go hand in hand. But “Winin’” is the dance that Trini’s do which you can probably recognize as similar to the dance and gyration done on most Hip Hop video presentations. Below, you will see a young lady winin’ alone in the street. You will notice that she knew I was taking her image and shared this visual. Unfortunately, it is not moving video, but I think you will get it.
…and just in case you did not get it…
I do believe you have it!!!
Strike a Pose!!!
On Carnival Tuesday, revelers were in full costume for the balance of the day. Engaging a camera, any camera, is all part of the allure, and in the following images, most of the costumed revelers are staring directly into the “image capture box”.
Full regalia in the house…
…and then some…
…and for good reason.
Tobago Lime
When Trinidadians cannot afford a trip to the United States and beyond, one of the vacation spots of choice is the island of Tobago. Tobago and Trinidad were separate governmental entities until around (1962), when they became independent of United Kingdom rule. Tobagoans get to enjoy much prettier beaches that Trinidad, and thus it becomes the default vacation place to lime, inexpensively. It is also Carnival tradition to get to Tobago after the excesses of celebration during the ‘Holy Day’. Below are some of the images taken in during our stay on that island.
Kariwak Village
We stayed at a holistic spa in Crown Point, Tobago, which speaks to having a ‘Wellness’ component associated with Ultimate You!! Accommodations’ travel excursions. There were yoga and Tai Chi classes, massages and Reiki services; the food was prepared with herbs grown on site, and the drinking water was ozonated. Though the facility was nice and very accessible from the airport (it is right around the corner), the management was quite inaccessible. Additionally, many of the staff were robotic and sterile. Good thing the weather was warm to compensate for the lack of personal warmth; maybe we just did not fit into their customer profile.
Inviting.
Crown Point, Tobago – Sights and Beaches
Scarborough, Tobago is the capital and major city of the island. If One takes the ferry from Trinidad to Tobago, this is the port at which you will disembark. Also, cruise ships spend their time in Scarborough as well. However, twenty minutes down the road is Crown Point International Airport, and it where we stayed during all of our stays due this phenomenal accessibility. Tobago has great beaches, but as a non-beach person, the Crown Point location offers easy mobility to many of the activities – limin’ and winin’. The images below are all within walking distance of the airport and the resort in that area.
Pigeon Point Heritage Park is the only beach that charges an entrance fee: $18.00 TT ($3.00 U.S.) per person.
Departure
All in all, this was a really great excursion. The national celebration of the annual Carnival was new and exciting, and allowed us a very different access to Trinidad than previous visits, as we stayed in more remote areas of the island. I would encourage you to ‘…get your win’ and lime on’ at the Trinidadian Carnival at least once. Mardi Gras is only in New Orleans, Louisiana. Trinidad and Tobago Carnival is nation-wide. Get some!!!
A few airport images at your final departure.
Join us at next year’s Carnival and Tobago lime – 16-25 February (2012)!!
